170 Megapixels with a Sony NEX camera and Vizalex RhinoCam by Dierk Topp

57 Comments

1. Well I am another person who got excited about the Rhinocam and tried it with both Hasseblad and Mamiya lenses + sony a6000. One thing is that with a shift lens Mamiya 55 shift lense I stopped down to F8 or F11 – I get some different tones or color hues on the edge photos … is that because of the shift? (of course everything in manual, white balance, iso, shooting – using a sony a6000 – i hope it’s not a camera issue but setup issue. I also don’t get 100% same light exposure on hasselblad – (at least some of the pano images need some corrections in photoshop – the center ones being noticeably brighter in long exposure)… if anyone has comments to help me with my frustrations please let me know!!!
   Thank you Dierk – you are really great! Thank you everyone for this exciting post

   • Let Photoshop resolve the colour problems, it balances things out quite well.
     Every shot will be slightly different from the other.

2. If someone was interested in getting a Fotodiox Vizelex Rhinocam I am selling my Hasselblad V lens – Sony NEX body adapter, two lenses (40mm f4 FLE CF and 250mm f5.6 CF), two extension tubes and a pro shade. This is located in Europe so no extra tax is payable if shipped within the EU.

   Ebay item 191245062792

   I have found this very useful, the only reason I am selling it is I am doing more video, so I bought a programable head to use for both still and video with my Sony A7r and 17mm tilt/shift lens. I found that PTgui was easily the best for stitching images from the Rhinocam.

3. I also asked Fotodiox about the A7r and they said that it can be used with existing NEX RhinoCam system but that the ground glass unit needed to be removed.

   • I don’t understand Fotodiox.
     They know the problem with the A7 for a long time.
     They only have to move the ground glass a few mm to the left and the problem with the A7 would be solved.

4. Just ordered the RhinoCam for Fuji X from Fotodiox, today.
   Will be using it with the Hasselblad 120mm Makro and the Fuji X-Pro 1.
   FYI: Fotodiox told me that they will now be stocking RhinoCams for various camera bodies.

   • congratulations!
     the 120mm Zeiss Makro is a great lens,
     if you want go closer, you can use a Canon 77mm close-up lens 500D with a 62-77mm Hasselblad adapter

     • Closer is good, adaptor would have to be 60-77mm. Thanks for the suggestion.

   • Hi!
     Could I please ask you to say, where you ordered the camera?
     Thank you.
     Ilya.

     • “camera” = “RhinoCam for Fuji X” 🙂

       • Direct from Fotodiox.
         If it’s not shown online you’ll need to phone them.

         • I am very much obliged to you, bkootchin.

5. I read Dierk’s article here and immediately ordered one from fotodiox in the U.S.A. Even with import duty in the U.K. I saved around $300 from the U.K. Price. The camera is great and I already used it with Hasselblad 80mm planar and nex5 body to copy a large detailed artwork for a client with great success. I found like Dierk that the various index marks do not leave room for error, the overlap is small, so I shot more images with greater overlap and the stitching in photoshop was perfect. It would be better if the positions were click-stopped, and a cover of some kind protected the exposed imaging sensor while framing up the shot. I have made one out of black vinyl sheet and it attaches with velcro so I can remove it for transport. I do studio product shots for a living and this has saved me $6000 plus over a digital back for my Sinar. Btw, it does fit on a 5×4 camera, you have to unclip the focus screen on the back, easy to do on a Sinar etc.

   • Hi Howard,
     thanks for the advice.
     Today I tried and mounted the NEX-6 on the Rhinocam and on my Gandolfi Variant 4×5 and it worked. But you can not shift too much, you get shades of the Rhinocam into the image (hard to describe).
     I loaded e set of pictures of the setup and here is the result
     http://www.flickr.com/photos/dierktopp/12528749874/

     But this setup is not really good for professional work, the control of the focus is too unsure. You can not use the normal ground glass, the ground glass of the Rhinocam lies on a different plane.

     • in the mean time I got a Sinar P 4×5 and use it with the Rhinocam and 150mm and 210mm Rodenstock lenses – and I love it 🙂
       here are some pictures:
       https://www.flickr.com/photos/dierktopp/sets/72157641670093123/

       • What adaptors are needed for the various 4×5’s? Cambo?

         • I am not sure, if I understand your question.
           The Rhinocam has the standard size, you just mount the Rhinocam instead of the ground glass, that is all!
           I hope, you can see it on this image:
           https://www.flickr.com/photos/dierktopp/12841789045/in/set-72157641670093123

         • Excellent

       • Just looking at a Toyo 4×5 and FC 4×5 today.
         Is it simple enough to remove the ground glass and attach the RhinoCam?

         • my comment from yesterday is still awaiting moderation 🙁
           yes, the ground glass is removable with a click.

         • Just picked up a Cambo with Schneider 90mm lens.
           Had to remove the ground glass holder and do a rebuild but got the RhinoCam to fit.
           Found that the 90mm wouldn’t focus unless a few inches from the subject.
           Anu ideas as to correcting that problem?

         • 90mm is not working because of the extra about 6cm of the adapter and the sensor behind the normal ground glass position.

           Even with 150mm you need a wide angle bellows for infinity 🙁 For studio shooting a normal bellows would be ok. for 150mm.

         • Doesn’t take much distance to render the lens ineffective.
           I also picked up a 210 that is working well.
           I’m trying to get everything in focus but that’s proving challenging.
           Excuse my ignorance, what is and what would a wide angle bellows do for the 150?
           I did get a ballon bellows with the kit.

         • I’m also considering getting the Fotodiox 4×5 to Nikon adaptor:

           http://www.fotodioxpro.com/fotodiox-pro-nikon-f-to-large-format-4×5-adapter-offset-camera-mount-fits-cambo-linhof-calumet-horseman-omega-toyo-kodak-with-graflok-back-on-digital-nikon-bodies-d100-d200-d300-d300s-d700-d1-d2-d3-d3s-d3x-d40-d50-d60.html

           then adapting my Fuji X camera to that to get a larger image area.
           Any thoughts on that?

         • it works, but with 150mm there is almost no space left to move the back or front standard. The bellows is almost completely pressed together. Without any movement I prefer to use the Rhinocam only and my Hasselblad lenses.

           I can not comment on the Fuji question but the Nikon adapter seems to be an interesting offer, but not for me any more, I sold my Nikon gear a year ago 🙂

         • I installed the bag bellows and put both standards on the same side of the tripod post. This allowed me excellent focusing and excellent depth of field with the 90mm. Now it’s happening.

6. I think the advantage over Gigapan is that lens ‘character’ is perfectly preserved. Gigapan relies on perfect lenses (Think Zeiss Otus …) – any off-axis distortion, aberration, coma, vignetting, flare spots, ‘swirly bokeh’ etc. can re-appear at different points across the image. Rhinocam will look natural, even with imperfect lenses.

   It’s more a highest-quality rather than widest-angle thing.

7. Thanks for your reply, Dierk. I am somehow fallen in love with those XXX megapixel pictures! 😀

   Can you imagine a comfortable way how to shoot and stitch such pictures with an A7R?

   • Balduin,
     I asked Fotodiox about using the A7. They don’t know jet, they don’t have an A7 jet.
     To answer your question, I only know of using a good pano head with perfect adjustment of the nodal point. But still you get the “fisheye effect” with round lines.

8. Next toy for a Sony A7R. 😀 THX for sharing!

   Greetings from Germany

   • Balduin,
     I don’t think, it will fit on the Rhinocam, the grip seems to be much thicker.
     And besides better colors and DR there will be no advantage for a bigger sensor, you just shoot less frames to cover the whole 6×6 area. To make it clear, if the sensor is 6×6 you just shot one frame 🙂
     Greetings from Hamburg

9. very interesting article, dierk.

   viele gruesse aus HH

   rick

10. Terrific work and interesting article, although it may be overkill for most of us. I have done many panoramas (handheld) with Sony NEX cameras and stitched the images very quickly in Photoshop with the Photomerge function and come out beautifully.
    But seriously, this piece should have been proof-read. Too many typos! And sadly it detracts from the professionalism of the piece. It is a flaw that has become all too common in the age of the internet and blogs. Perhaps with people losing the ability to spell it is moot.

    • the article would have been perfect in dierk’s native language – german. as it is, i think the content about equipment and technique comes through 99%, and that’s what should be important to us.

    • I just noticed this comment today.
      Thanks very much, Rick!!

      I have the impression, if someone does not have experience in writing in a foreign language, she/he can not imagine the effort for an article like this (at least for me).
      Rich, if my typos distract you from what I am trying to say, just look at the images – or read something else 🙂
      Regards from Hamburg, Germany
      dierk

11. Hi everyone,
    i wonder if is possible to use the RhinoCam with a Sony Nex VG900,that is a videocamera but takes pictures too and it’s a full frame. Anyone has samples?Because i’m an owner of that videocamera and should be cheaper only buying the RhinoCam instead a new Nex camera.Thank you so much.

    • I can not imagine, that it would make sense. This huge camera connected to 1000+ kg Rhinocam plus lens, all connected with the tiny E-mount ??
      Besides that there are only a few mm between the NEX6/7 and the box this the ground glass. I would buy a NEX6.
      I am afraid, that even the coming NEX FF will make problems!?
      dierk

      • Thank you for your answer,Dierk.

12. When I had a NEX7, it didn’t work too well with adapted wides because the light rays were coming in at too much of an angle and it caused smearing and color shifts. With this adapter and a wider MF lens, I would have to wonder if there would be some color shifts when your at the far edges of the frame, and if that would be difficult to stitch vs images taken from the center of the image circle ?

    Perhaps a NEX5 or 6 might work a bit better, even though it would be a lower MP pano, because those seem to have less color shift issues.

    • I had the same problems with wide glass Zeiss-M or Leica-M (below 35mm) but you can correct almost all with cornerfix (free SW).

      With wide angle glass from DSLR there are less or no problems, because the construction is different.
      Wide lens for 6×6 means 50 or 40mm (I don’t know of any wider besides the 38mm on the Hasselblad, but that is not interchangeable).

      Using the 40mm on the Rhinocam is like about 24 or 21mm for 24×36. That is pretty wide. On the image of the wood with the big tree on the left, I just moved the pano head of the tripod a bit to the left and shot an other row of images. In that case the result is not out of one single image circle any more, but I got my tree on the picture 🙂

      dierk

13. Do You think i can use Mamiya 7 lenses hére ??

    Greg

    • they offer only an adapter for Mamiya 645.
      Why not asking them?
      dierk

14. Really impressive!

15. They lost me at “stitch”. Nonetheless, it is an interesting idea.

16. Very cool! Great pictures and thanks for sharing. I have an NEX-7 and I continue to be amazed at how versatile the camera is. From using old lenses to speed boosters for Full Frame effect to this.

17. Really interesting project and amazing pictures, Congrats!

18. I try to explain this principle versus Gigapan.

    In the beginning I wrote, that I used one of the very first Gigapan EPIC during the beta program. If they did not change it too much, with my model there was no way to adjust is to use the correct nodal point. That makes it sensible for foreground/background parallaxes.
    With my D70 and the Panosaurus I used the exact nodal point for my lenses (marked it for the different focal length), no problems with parallaxes.

    But:
    with all methods, using moved lenses (even with the analog Horizon and the Steitz Roundshot, where the lens is rotating) you get distortions. Some of them may be corrected with PP, I don’t have much experiences with that.

    With the Rhinocam principle you don’t have any of those problems (of course besides moving objects)!!

    As I wrote above:
    by using the big image circle of the 6×6 lenses you don’t get any problems with parallax and foreground, ….. You move within the same image and “simulate” a much bigger sensor
    that means, you keep the lens in the same position and move the sensor in a parallel plane. That means, after stitching the images, you get a result as if you had a big sensor, covering the whole image. The sensor size, you get, is much bigger than with the very expensive medium format digital backs.
    The only distortion you get is the native distortion of the lens, you use.

    Pros, please correct me, if I am wrong!

    dierk

    • You are absolutely right…I’m developing my own motorized VR mount controler (using hardware made by Canadian Greg Nuspel)….I’ve seen the Rhinocam as well and it shoots with the lens in the same position for all 8 shots. Now software like Autopano Pro/Giga is great in correcting lens distortions but since you shoot basically in a sphere you are stuck with great IQ in the image circle and not so great IQ in the edges of the frame since these need to be streched into the square….now that can be corrected somewhat by using longer lenses and a longer distance from the subject (and thus a smaller overall shooting angle), but as we all know that is not always possible….in that case a medium format stitching solution is great. In fact there are more options like the Shen Hao DLSR adapter for 4×5 large format camera’s (were you use the back drop and rise in combination with a shift on the adapter to get to large format photo’s). And if you are lucky enough to own a GX680 (like I do) and a medium format back (like I don’t) you can also go the Kapture Group route they have this baby which coupled with a 66 Mpixel back does create 110 Mpixel images in 2 shots.

      P.S. It’s Andreas Gursky……and he is not alone in shooting ultra large……I’m exited to go to Düsseldorf for Candida Höfers show in september. She is using a Arca Swiss solution and I believe she stitches as well.

    • http://www.roundshot.ch/xml_1/internet/en/application/d77/d122/f123.cfm

      Of course if you have deep, deep, deep pockets (and have them filled as well) you can buy this baby which essentially is a scanning back extended to the hilt…..no parallax and no distortions (except for a distorted relation with you wife and/or bank manager).

      Greets, Ed.

    • Hi,

      Wondering if using for interior photography? instead of tilt-shift lens
      Like on mamiya 645, 35mm?

      Thank you
      Oun

19. I forgot to ask, what does the unit weight ? One thing I never really enjoyed about my Gigapan is that it weighted 3+lbs for just the unit itself, so when you add on a tripod, camera, lenses, leveling base, it becomes a pretty heavy item for hiking.

    I switched to a Nodal Ninja (using with my Sigma DP2m) and that is a good deal of weight savings and pretty easy and quick to do things like a 3 or 4 frame stitch, but being able to do a flat stitch would have some nice advantages of not having to level the head first.

    I always rather enjoyed using my PC-E lenses on my Nikon’s but those were a bit limited in range. This could actually be a pretty cool system for me….. NEX bodies are quite cheap these days after all

    • the weight of the unit with the Hasselbad lens adapter ist 700g.

      My Zeiss lenses 40, 120 and 150mm are also about 700g. The normal 80mm will be lighter (but boring 🙂
      If you add a reasonable tripod you have 3 to 4 kg at least.

      BTW: my d3 is about 1200g and the 14-24 wideangle is another 1000g. that’s, why it is at ebay in the moment.

      This is not made for hiking (unless you want to do it like Ansel Adams with 30kg 🙂 )
      I did almost all my landscape with the Leica and 21mm or 35mm (and some with 75mm) in one to 3 rows hand held with big overlap (30%) and never had a problem in stitching.

20. Very cool, didn’t know anything like this existed. I’ve got a gigapan and some other manual pano heads which work pretty well, maybe even faster, but this is quite the novel way of going about stitching

21. I read on a review that one of the cons (or things you need to be careful with) is that the sensor is exposed when you are using the framing window. Is this true? If so, they should address a way to protect it while framing in a new version.

    • this is right,
      the sensor is uncovered during framing. I had no problems, I set up everything and then do the framing, that takes only a few seconds, open the aperture first! 🙂
      And then don’t forget to close it again :)) like shooting a large format camera.

      To cover the sensor during framing would make the unit much wider and bulkier.
      Besides that, they mention 4×5 and the body of the Rhinocam looks like that. But it does not fit into my international 4×5 back 🙁

22. How different would this be from a Gigapan?

23. wonderful work!

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